Luis Gordon, owner of the oldest wine bar in London, former chairman of the family sherry shippers, and consultant to Decanter for 15 years, has died at 69 after losing a four-year fight against cancer.
Gordon worked with Decanter founders’ Colin Parnell and Tony Lord from 1976 to 1983, advising and lending financial assistance. In 1972 he bought the ancient cellars under London’s Charing Cross and opened Gordon’s Wine Bar.
The historic vaults date from the 14th century, and in their time have played host to such literary and theatrical figures as Tennyson, Chesterton, Kipling, Vivien Leigh and Lawrence Olivier. Gordon’s is still celebrated for its blackened walls, labyrinthine vaults, and ancient sherry and port casks
In his early twenties, Gordon joined the family sherry business Luis Gordon & Sons as a salesman and in 1971 became chairman. The company was sole importer of the Domecq range of sherries to the UK for more than 200 years. Under Gordon’s reign the company became the biggest player in the fast-expanding UK sherry. It was floated on the UK stock market in 1972.
Visits to the family business in Jerez were legendary, often ending in impromptu bullfighting demonstrations on the Domecq estates. Gordon delighted in inviting boozy hacks to try their hand in the bullring.
Outside business, Gordon was creative, with a talent for painting and design. A well-known couturier was once photographed for Vogue by Lord Snowdon seated in one of Gordon’s chairs.
Always an entrepreneur, he dabbled with an anti-gravity device powered by electric motors and gyroscopes. And when bored with that, he thundered around his home village of Henfield, West Sussex in a Second World War tank, vintage fire engine or racing car.
He met and fell for his wife Wendy when he was only 15. He said that when he first saw her he knew it was not necessary to approach her immediately because he also knew he was destined to spend the rest of his life with her. They were married for 47 years – Gordon leaves six children and 13 grandchildren.
G77, glorious red, 30% opaque. First attempt: red fruits, white pepper bitterness, mis-palate sweetness, soft and lovely. Much liked. Later: even better, bigger and more sumptuous.
45% opacity, mature red-orance. Classic '77 nose (to me), with dusty strawberries.
Fresh entry, strawberries, gives way to slight bitterness and gentle heat. The bitterness curtails the finish.
OK but not what G77 can be.
Nose: redcurrants. Maybe a touch of tobacco.
Palate: luxurious entry, LOADS of caramel backed with strawberries and milk chocolate in the mid palate. Spicy in the mid palate too, maybe white pepper and a semi-sweet orange acidity. Eucalyptus in the finish with tannic grip. A lovely long finish, this is excellent - my second favourite on the night.
(I have since acquired a case for my cellar!)
Graham 1977: Mature rose red in colour; 50% opaque. Slightly soapy on the otherwise restrained nose. Like the nose, the palate is also restrained, not showing a lot of flavour. Some fruit does come through on the mid-palate. Gentle tannins appear on the aftertaste. The ripe fruit does arrive on the finish, but the wine is a little closed on the palate. Not in a great spot for drinking today - best leave for a year or two to see if it's closing down or opening up. 86/100. Opened at 18.30, decanted at 08.15 and drunk at 18.15.
Top Ports in 2024: Niepoort 1900 Colheita, b.1971. A near perfect Port.
2025: Quevedo 1972 Colheita, b.2024. Just as good as Niepoort 1900!
