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AHB and DRT and RAYC tested Davy’s new location, the Steak Exchange of 2 Exchange Square EC2A 2EH, +44 20 7256 5962.

Links:

• Review of the evening as a whole, and of the Steak Exchange;
• 1948 Taylor;
• 1967 Cockburn;
• 1970 Dalva;
• 1991 Graham;
• Placemats.

Deep red, 95% opaque. Very baked or stewed nose, plenty of stewed fruit. Empty on the palate, a little non-descript, neither sweet nor dry and with little fruit showing. Air does release good fruit flavours, but these have a baked overtone. Some pleasant, dryness from the soft tannins. Patience allows this to grow in flavour. The finish is big and flavoursome, lovely and delicious. With more time in the glass, the port opened up to become more grapey and with more weight and flavour. Another pointer that the 1991 ports are to drink sooner, rather than later. Guessed to be Dow 1991. My wine of the night with 87/100.

My note says: "Stewed nose - dark red - very dry - mid weight. Dow 85?"

Again, this was a wine that improved as the night went on but I don't think it was representative of what Graham 1991 can deliver.