24 May 2022 - A Kopke Blending Masterclass

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Alex Bridgeman
Graham’s 1948
Posts: 14880
Joined: 13:41 Mon 25 Jun 2007
Location: Berkshire, UK

24 May 2022 - A Kopke Blending Masterclass

Post by Alex Bridgeman »

On Tuesday 24th May, Sogevinus arranged a Tawny Port blending masterclass for a number of invited guests. The masterclass was led by Carlos Alves, master blender for the Sogevinus portfolio but this masterclass focused just on the Kopke label - which we were told is the oldest of the Port houses having been established in 1638. A lovely history timeline highlighted that at the time of Kopke's founding, Portugal was still 30 years away from becoming independent from Spain. Carlos was ably supported by Dirceu Vianna Junior MW and João Belo, Sogevinus Marketing Director for the UK.

Table setting
Table setting
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Each attendee was presented with what looked like a small briefcase embossed with the Kopke logo and strapline in gold with "Master Blending Ports" embossed in the leather at the bottom of the cover. It is a very classy presentation.

Box cover
Box cover
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Top Ports in 2023: Taylor 1896 Colheita, b. 2021. A perfect Port.

2024: Niepoort 1900 Colheita, b.1971. A near perfect Port.
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Alex Bridgeman
Graham’s 1948
Posts: 14880
Joined: 13:41 Mon 25 Jun 2007
Location: Berkshire, UK

Re: 24 May 2022 - A Kopke Blending Masterclass

Post by Alex Bridgeman »

Júnior providing an introduction
Júnior providing an introduction
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Junior gave the introduction, which was well pitched with a mixture of basic introductory facts and good detail for the Port nerd. A lot of his focus was on the ability of the Douro to generate complexity: different orientations, different altitudes, different grapes, different soil types and structures...

He also observed that quality Tawny Ports are growing in sales volume and value. In 2015, 4.2m litres of Tawny with Indication of Age was sold and last year it was just over 6m. João also reflected that not only was volume growing, but it was growing most strongly at the top end of the range so average price per litre was also increasing. There was some discussion about balancing today's stocks against tomorrow's demand and the way in which this is being managed in the vineyards and through the beneficio. Basically less Port is being made cheaply into entry level wine. Now the "cheap" vineyards are receiving more care and attention during the growing season, the wines are made more carefully, their cellaring and selection is given proper time and effort so the same grapes can now be used to produce better quality wines.

The box is open!
The box is open!
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And then we were allowed to open the box - wow! So professionally put together. A half bottle of 50YO Tawny plus five of the main components used in the blend; a measuring cylinder, conical flask, pencil and notebook (with the admonition to make sure we use them to record the percentages of our blends!) and glass labels so we don't lose track of what is where.
Top Ports in 2023: Taylor 1896 Colheita, b. 2021. A perfect Port.

2024: Niepoort 1900 Colheita, b.1971. A near perfect Port.
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Alex Bridgeman
Graham’s 1948
Posts: 14880
Joined: 13:41 Mon 25 Jun 2007
Location: Berkshire, UK

Re: 24 May 2022 - A Kopke Blending Masterclass

Post by Alex Bridgeman »

Our challenge was to get as close to the 50YO blend as we could (see tasting note). We worked as individuals around a table before selecting the table's best blend to be judged by Carlos. The components were all blended wines being matured in wood in the Kopke cellars.

Blending in progress.
Blending in progress.
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  • Component A was light and fresh on the nose, gentle fresh palate of dried fruit. This wine had an average age of about 22 years.
  • Component B had a sweet floral nose and a slight thickness to the palate. Sweet and elegant with light palate presence but a long finish. Average age of 48 years.
  • Component C was Fresh on the nose, balanced and with rich dried fruit on the palate. The average age of the wine in this blend was 49 years.
  • Component D was dark in colour and had a rich vinagrinho on the nose. Powerful but balanced with great acidity. Intense and concentrated. Average age of 52 years.
  • Component E was very dark, rich and with hints of tannins. Thickened in texture with a strong coffee and burnt sugar finish. Average age of 53 years.
My best attempt was 30% lote B, 50% lote C, 10% lote D and 10% lote E.
The actual blend was 14% lote B, 33% lote C, 24% lote D and 29% lote E.

This was a great opportunity to attempt to make a tawny blend and just emphasised how skilful an experienced blender has to be. Not only do they need to be able to make a great blend, but it has to be sustainable into the next generation of winemakers both in terms of the stocks in the warehouse today but also the wines which have yet to be harvested and will be in the warehouse in 30 to 40 years time.

Carlos rounded the masterclass off with an insight into the training program followed by an award winning master blender. "For the first three years I was working in the blending room my job was to clean the glasses, transcribe the tasting notes, clean the room up after the blending team and make everything ready for them to start again tomorrow. I was not even allowed to taste the wines." Such is the dedication needed by someone who wants to become a master blender.
Top Ports in 2023: Taylor 1896 Colheita, b. 2021. A perfect Port.

2024: Niepoort 1900 Colheita, b.1971. A near perfect Port.
M.Charlton
Taylor’s LBV
Posts: 184
Joined: 16:40 Sat 23 Jun 2018

Re: 24 May 2022 - A Kopke Blending Masterclass

Post by M.Charlton »

That kit looks excellent - Kopke really know how to present their products!
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Alex Bridgeman
Graham’s 1948
Posts: 14880
Joined: 13:41 Mon 25 Jun 2007
Location: Berkshire, UK

Re: 24 May 2022 - A Kopke Blending Masterclass

Post by Alex Bridgeman »

The pictures and narrative have been updated and filled in.

It was a wonderful opportunity to taste a remarkable wine and the components which were used to make it.
Top Ports in 2023: Taylor 1896 Colheita, b. 2021. A perfect Port.

2024: Niepoort 1900 Colheita, b.1971. A near perfect Port.
Andy Velebil
Quinta do Vesuvio 1994
Posts: 3028
Joined: 22:16 Mon 25 Jun 2007
Location: Los Angeles, Ca USA
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Re: 24 May 2022 - A Kopke Blending Masterclass

Post by Andy Velebil »

Cool. It’s very humbling trying to do these and very educational. Glad you got to!
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