Effectiveness of overwaxing

[uncle tom]

A recent and convivial dinner party at Otto's in the Grays Inn Rd provided the opportunity to open two very ullaged and overtly leaky bottles that I had over waxed.

In both cases I had weighed the bottles after over waxing and weighed them again prior to taking them to London. The scales used had changed over that time, but the records kept of a reference weight (a sealed bottle of glass marbles) enables me to compute with some accuracy the loss of weight since waxing.

The waxing method involves dipping the necks of the bottles momentarily into bottle sealing wax supplied by British wax. This wax is much more rubbery than the hard brittle wax normally used by the producers, and takes longer to set, requiring some diligence when waxing. In addition, care was taken in each case to clean and de-grease the necks of the bottles using acetone, early trials having shown that even the grease from one's fingers can create a point of leakage. Note: If waxing a bottle with a selo, cut the selo back, else it will act as a wick.

The first bottle was a Sandeman 1935, that had previously ullaged to low shoulder. Assuming it had ullaged very little for the first half of it's life, it had probably been losing 2-5g weight p.a. in the years leading up to my purchase and over waxing. After checking the weight figures against the reference weight data, I find that this bottle had been ullaging at the rate of 0.17g p.a. since waxing.

The second bottle was a Sandeman 1920 that had ullaged to a half inch below low shoulder. The very wet capsule had probably been leaking upwards of 10g p.a. prior to my acquisition, and about 200mL in total volume. This bottle's ullage rate was reduced to 0.38g p.a.

Despite it's condition, the Sa20 was joint WOTN, confirming that even bottles in dire condition can still show very well.

The data also confirms that this method provides an effective long term solution for the preservation of bottles with failing corks.

[Glenn E.]

That's great information, Tom, thanks!

I've never tried to overwax (or even re-wax), but if I do ever find that a bottle is leaking in my cellar (or purchase one that clearly has been), I'll give this a try.

[JB vintage]

Great to hear. I have also bought the sealing wax from British wax and it is really great when applied. The only problem is that it takes quite a long time to heat the wax and complete the waxing procedure. May I ask how you heat the wax? How long time does it take for you heat it?

[uncle tom]

I heat the wax in large stove enamelled camping mugs that I then place in a small saucepan with a little sunflower oil added, to help transfer the heat.

Don't rush it - I normally put the heat on my electric hob to between levels 2 & 3 and put a cover over the top; then get on with something else, checking occasionally - it takes about an hour this way. I find the wax works best when just past it's melting point. Once it's nearly melted, I drop the heat to level 1.

[JB vintage]

That is the same experience i have, it takes about an hour to melt. I did the same way in a sauce pan a first. However, I find it easier to melt it in the oven. Nowadays I melt the wax in a glass jar in the oven for about an hour (150 Centigrades). It works all right but it takes a long time. I find it much easier to put it in the oven as I am reluctant to leave the stove on with flammable material.

[uncle tom]

as I am reluctant to leave the stove on with flammable material

Yes, boiling wax can be a bigger fire hazard than a chip pan - don't leave unattended..