- Taylor 1896
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Taylor's have developed a happy knack of finding ancient and delicious Ports which have been maturing for decades - or even centuries - in the cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia or in the Douro. This is the latest release by Taylor of their stock of ancient wines and it is decidedly worthy of its exalted status, although it's £4,000+ price tag reflects its rarity and age.
To the eye, it looks like nothing particularly special, reminding me of a 40YO tawny I tasted the previous night but when you put your nose into the glass it really starts to set itself up as something extraordinary. There is a deep and rich balsamic vinegar core to the nose of the wine, but with some unexpected fruit with the two combining to remind me very much of the pomegranate vinegar dressing which you find in Middle Eastern cuisine. The promised richness follows onto the palate where the thick sweetness of ripe dates is balanced by an extraordinary level of acidity, yet deep within this sweet-sour battle are undertones of dried orange zest and dried sour cherry. The intensity continues on the aftertaste and finish, a long and complex set of flavours which move over the course of 3-4 minutes from dates and molasses to marmalade to a blonde-roasted espresso. This is a truly exceptional wine. 99/100. Tasted 29 June 2021.
