1983 Calem

Tasting notes for individual Ports, with an index sorted by vintage and alphabetically.
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Tasting notes for individual Ports, with an index sorted by vintage and alphabetically.
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Will W.
Taylor’s LBV
Posts: 183
Joined: 14:33 Thu 11 Aug 2016

1983 Calem

Post by Will W. »

Formerly a family firm founded in the mid-nineteenth century, Calem is today part of the Sogevinus stable. Portugal served historically as the principal point for the retail sale of Calem wines; and, whilst distribution of its more recent vintages is a great deal wider, Calem vintage ports and colheitas are ubiquitous on the secondary market in Portugal. The resale prices of Calem ports are generally in keeping with the quality of the product, which would never be confused with Taylor’s, Graham’s, Dow’s and the like in their better years. In this respect, Calem is comparable to Burmester in its ratio of quality to price, Burmester being another producer acquired by Sogevinus at the first half of the 2000s. The bottle of 1983 Calem vintage port which is the subject of this tasting note constituted the most recent of several consumed by your correspondent over the previous three years.

After a five-hour decant on 16 November 2019, the appearance of the wine was cloudy, in keeping with the norm. However, this same bottle deviated from the said norm in being the colour of strong tea: orange-infused brown had somehow come to be substituted for its customary hues, which are akin to those found in the sort of honey dispensed from plastic bottles at lower-end diners. Come to think of it, the Calem 1983 vintage port always looks like rubbish in the glass. At any rate, in this instance Her Ladyship likened its appearance to that of the waters of the Regent’s Canal, though this characterisation was a bit harsh and is anyhow best saved for the 1985 Borges vintage port. On the nose, the Calem was somewhat better than its look, with hints of spice, minerals, orange peel and prunes in evidence. In the event, disappointment returned at the palate. The spices and orange peel were pleasantly discernible on entry, though the mid-palate proved to be rather hollow; here one could grasp, if only just, touches of honey and raisin. The finish, whilst pleasantly warm and long, might otherwise be described as one-dimensional.

The residual sugar and strong acidity were well balanced, with the tannins fully integrated as was the fortification. However, this bottle showed poorly, presumably owing to its improper storage at some point during its life. Or so its appearance would suggest. The vacuity of this bottle at the mid-palate was unusual which is to note that the same wine at its best would score two or three points higher - with those afflicted by poor eyesight likely to toss another couple of points atop that.

-86 points
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