A white revelation

[uncle tom]

You go to the lodges, they proffer a standard white as a freebie, it smells like a white wine that's gone off, and the palate is either harsh or sickly.

On it's own it's a non-runner, as a base for a cocktail, maybe one day - maybe...

That, I think is most people's take on white port. Why the lodges are so keen to offer it is beyond me.

BUT..

There is white port, and white port; and in the last week my impression has been radically altered.

First came the visit to Napoles, and dinner with Dirk Niepoort at the heart of his table wine empire. Dirk has just produced a very small run of 10yr white which is truly superb - he admits himself that he keeps drinking it. It is not clear whether he has the stock to make a further bottling.

Then a brief stop at Vinologia, and encounters with the Eufemia aged whites and the Dalva '52. Excellent wines; and in a totally different league to the awful lodge offerings - better than Dirk's? - Not quite, I think, but a close run thing.

By chance the next bottle on death row back home was a Rozes white reserve, bottled for the French market.

Very much an intermediate, as one might expect, with a hint of that 'off' nose that is so prevalent among the standard whites; but it is really quaffable. Opened yesterday, it will not see tomorrow..

I am working on getting hold of a stash of Dirk's 10yr - no prices yet, but if anyone wants a supply, please PM me.

Tom