2017 Graham

[winesecretary]

From 375

Pop and decant and pour and considered over an hour.

100 % opaque

The passion fruit note of four years ago is fading on the nose and is being replaced by juicy violet.

Cool but rich and remarkably generous strawberry fruit which slowly shifts and darkens to blackcurrant on the finish. It’s truly kaleidoscopic. Sort of shifts from one to the other via the full currant and cranberry spectrum, making splendid patterns on the palate. The fruit is so plush it is almost impossible to discern the structure at first, but towards the end of the minute- long finish it gradually makes its appearance. Some 100% cocoa chocolate, very late.

This is truly majestic port. Plateau is 30 years away, and when it is at its best from bottle I will certainly be dead. But the port drinker of 2070 is in for a real treat.

I am increasingly convinced this really is a stellar vintage at the top end. I have been wowed recently by each of Croft, Dow, Niepoort and now Graham, and I am not exactly easy to wow.

[Doggett]

I have been wowed recently by each of Croft, Dow, Niepoort and now Graham, and I am not exactly easy to wow.

If pressed does one those Ports stand above the others?

[winesecretary]

Well the Niepoort is the best of their vintage ports I’ve ever tasted. But I might be prepared to offer odds on the Graham being the better drink in thirty years. So, for drinking now Niepoort, Dow, Graham, Croft. In 2060, Graham, Dow, Croft, Niepoort.