I thought that I'd dig out some notes from a Quinta de Vargellas 2005-1967 vertical conducted by Adrian Bridge, Managing Director of Taylor’s, at The Royal Opera House in London, to commemorate the release of the 2005 Quinta de Vargellas a few years ago.
At the 1995 harvest it was decided, exceptionally, to separate the best and oldest vines of the Vargellas vineyard and to make an additional wine from these. Less than four pipes of Vargellas Vinha Velha (‘Old Vineyard’) were produced, equating to 224 cases, about 10% of Vargellas’ production.
These vines were mostly planted in 1910, with more planted by Dick Yeatman in 1927. At 80+ years, the vines are allegedly older on average than those in Noval’s Nacional, which averages 40+ years. Yields are probably a quarter of the usual 800g per vine at Vargellas.
This inaugural Vinha Velha was made discreetly so as not to undermine the full Vargellas wine. Adrian Bridge describes it as, "a more concentrated version of Vargellas, with many layers and more depth".
Taylor's report for the 1997 vintage says, "Winter and spring were warm and dry, despite snow falling on 7 January. No rain fell between 7 January and 19 April at any of Taylor’s Quintas. Higher than normal temperatures in February and March brought about early budburst and flowering occurred five weeks earlier than normal. No sprays were applied to any of the vineyards as the hot, dry weather prevented the development of mildew and oidium. Although flowering was earlier than normal during this vintage, it was a more gradual ripening process and picking began around 18 September. The weather during the harvest was very hot, with daytime temperatures averaging between 30˚C and 35˚C. As a result, fermentation temperatures were high and extra efforts were made to prolong fermentations."
Approximately 100 cases were produced of Vinha Velha in the 1997 vintage. Colour as for the 1995, but a shade deeper. Closed, tightly wound nose, with the hint of liquorice that Bridge thinks is a calling card of Vargellas. Meaty palate, with some tasters wondering if there was some cork taint. Thick and rich, a huge wine, almost essence of Port…Very hard to read at the moment, as this is going through a particularly sullen phase. Even Bridge was unable to say much about it…A big, powerful wine. Four-square, almost monolithic at the moment, but perhaps it will become more generous as it matures.