I thought that I'd dig out some notes from a Quinta de Vargellas 2005-1967 vertical conducted by Adrian Bridge, Managing Director of Taylor’s, at The Royal Opera House in London, to commemorate the release of the 2005 Quinta de Vargellas a few years ago.
Located in an extremely remote location in the eastern-most Port-producing zone of the Douro Superior, Quinta de Vargellas became accessible by road only in the early 1970s, with no electricity until 1972.
Previously part owned by the Ferreira family, Vargellas was acquired by Taylor’s in 1893, when Phylloxera was ravaging the Douro Valley. At this time, the Quinta was capable of producing just six 550-litre pipes of Port. Today, it typically yields 245 pipes (134,800 litres/179,733 bottles). The north-facing vineyard comprises 25% Touriga Nacional, 25% Touriga Francesa, and 22% Tinta Roriz, with the rest planted to Tinta Cao, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Amarela, Rufete, and other varieties.
Vargellas is cheek by jowl with the River Douro and ripens up to two weeks earlier than cooler vineyards high up in the surrounding hills. On average, Vargellas is 2 degrees warmer across the year on average than Taylor’s other vineyard at Terra Feita.
In declared years, wine from Vargellas forms a major part of Taylor’s vintage blend, but it is bottled as a Single Quinta in those years when a bona fide Taylor’s Vintage is not declared. “A classic vintage has perfect conditions, and we make a blend from our two properties to produce a more long-lived wine…In other years, when it is very good but the wine won’t be as long-lived, we make a single Quinta wine,” explained Bridge. With the launch of its Quinta de Vargellas 1958, Taylor’s was the first Port house to release a single Quinta Vintage Port.
In the winery, Vargellas is treated exactly the same as a Vintage Port, but is aged in bottle at the Quinta for several years before release.
Some years ago, the humorist Willie Rushton drew a cartoon of bowler-hatted Englishmen crammed onto the tiny railway platform at the remote Vargellas station in the Douro Valley. The caption read, “The last outpost of the British Empire.” Rushton also wrote a poem in the Quinta’s visitors’ book (which all guests must do):
I could sing out your praises, ’til ill,
Of the Rusty. I’ve had more than my fill
At Vargellas. Oh, blast!
You go downhill so fast
And the bloody walk back’s all uphill.
Taylor's report on the 2001 vintage says, "The 2001 viticultural season was marked by one of the wettest winters on record. Between November 2000 and the end of March 2001, we recorded 1,057mm of rain at Pinhao, which caused widespread flooding and damage in the Douro region. However, the wet winter was beneficial for the vineyards, replenishing the reserves of water after four years of low rainfall. The wet winter and relatively warm temperatures produced an early budburst in the first ten days of March. The wet and cool March resulted in exceptional early season vigour. From April forward, the weather became more settled, with only 110mm of rain falling until the end of August. The temperatures were moderately hot throughout the summer, with a continuous light wind keeping the vines aerated and free of disease. 12mm of rain on 28 August contributed favourably to the final ripening of the grapes. The harvest started on 17 September at Quinta de Vargellas. The weather conditions during the first half of the vintage were ideal, with hot days and cold nights contributing favourably to fermentations."
Deep ruby purple, viscous in the glass. A generous, herbal nose, more open than some of the older wines. This seems thicker and richer than previous Vargellas vintages. Asked about this apparent change of direction at Vargellas, Bridge answered, ‘We have got better at what we do.’ During his pre-tasting presentation on the terroir of the Douro, he alluded to global warming : "We’ve had some strange climatic conditions over the last ten years…We’ve had some very heavy rainfall." The long term averages are unchanged, he explained, but there are occasional spikes of very unseasonal weather. The 2001 has some tannin, but this is not astringent, and the wine is already approachable, with excellent length. A nice wine, which charms with its lush fruit and silky tannins.