Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post your experiences of travel, especially for the Douro region. Make recommendations for places to stay and visit or ask advice from those that have already been there.
Post Reply
SCP
Fonseca Bin 27
Posts: 71
Joined: 19:08 Wed 18 Apr 2012
Location: UK

Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post by SCP » 14:07 Sat 12 Jul 2014

Dear all,

I am travelling to Portugal for a week in late August, including 3-4 days in and around Porto. I can think of plenty to do, however, I am travelling with my girlfriend, who is a NON-DRINKER.
Thus far, I have secured permission to spend most of one day wandering around VNdG visiting port lodges (went there previously in 2011) and hoping that she will be mildly interested in seeing the big old barrels and tempted by lunch at one of the lodges (or possibly the Yeatman).

I would also like to do a day trip into the Douro valley and need your help.
We are thinking of taking the train early doors from Porto-Campanha towards Pocinho and back in the evening. Apparently the view is fantastic, so no worries on that front. Do you know of any restaurants that have great views and are not too far from a station on the train line. Also, are there any quintas that would be more interesting for a non-drinker for whatever reason?

Thanks for the help!
Simon

User avatar
djewesbury
Graham’s 1970
Posts: 8153
Joined: 20:01 Mon 31 Dec 2012
Location: Belfast
Contact:

Re: Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post by djewesbury » 14:12 Sat 12 Jul 2014

The train is indeed wonderful. If you're going as far as Pocinho is the train straight through or do you have to change? Perhaps it would be better to go as far as Pinhão and stop for lunch there - there are plenty of places to eat, perhaps at the Vintage House Hotel or LBV, both near or beside the river. You could also visit Quinta de la Rosa if you drop them a line. There are some lovely little cafés in Pinhão too, so you can take your pick. If you're going as far as Pocinho and back in one day you probably won't get to see too much except the view - I could be wrong though!
Daniel J.
delete.. delete.. *sigh*.. delete...

User avatar
DRT
Graham’s 1948
Posts: 14991
Joined: 23:51 Wed 20 Jun 2007
Location: Chesterfield, UK
Contact:

Re: Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post by DRT » 15:04 Sat 12 Jul 2014

LBV is a good recommendation as it is very close to the station and the terrace looks straight out to the river with the towering heights of Carvalhas on one side and Quinta de la Rosa on the other. The food is good too 88)

I think there is some sort of archaeological site far up river (near Ervamoira I think?) but I don't know if it is close enough to a train station to be a practical option. Don't expect to see a taxi further up river than Pinhao!

The train journey is fantastic.
"The first duty of Port is to be red"

Ernest H. Cockburn

User avatar
DRT
Graham’s 1948
Posts: 14991
Joined: 23:51 Wed 20 Jun 2007
Location: Chesterfield, UK
Contact:

Re: Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post by DRT » 15:09 Sat 12 Jul 2014

When you visit the lodges be sure to include Ramos Pinto. Their lodge is also a museum and is filled with works of art, antique furniture and other non-Port related stuff so will perhaps be more interesting than those that are only filled with barrels. The new Graham's restaurant is also worth considering.
"The first duty of Port is to be red"

Ernest H. Cockburn

User avatar
djewesbury
Graham’s 1970
Posts: 8153
Joined: 20:01 Mon 31 Dec 2012
Location: Belfast
Contact:

Re: Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post by djewesbury » 15:15 Sat 12 Jul 2014

DRT wrote:The new Graham's restaurant is also worth considering.
Definitely. It's excellent. Sit in the conservatory and enjoy the view, and do their lodge tour beforehand; I'd rather eat here than the Yeatman for lunch. Ramos Pinto and Graham's are probably the best lodge tours; most of the rest repeat the same information in slightly different ways and get very repetitive very quickly. Graham's is also the only one I know that brings you to the cellar (though you can book a tour of the Yeatman's cellars).
Daniel J.
delete.. delete.. *sigh*.. delete...

User avatar
AW77
Morgan 1991
Posts: 1112
Joined: 20:20 Wed 25 Sep 2013
Location: Cologne, Germany

Re: Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post by AW77 » 01:39 Sun 13 Jul 2014

Next to the Yeatman, there is also the Taylor's lodge which has a very good restaurant called the "Barao Fladgate". It's a a bit long in the tooth now compared to the new Graham's "Vinum" restaurant, but it has a very nice terrace where you can enjoy your meal over a magnificent view of VNdG and Porto.
When in Pinhao, you should get a taxi to Sandeman's Quinta do Vau (it's around 10 to 12 Euros for one way). They have a quite interesting tour and as they're on top of a mountain a breathtaking view of the Douro valley.
The Eleventh Commandment: Thou shalt know thy Port

SCP
Fonseca Bin 27
Posts: 71
Joined: 19:08 Wed 18 Apr 2012
Location: UK

Re: Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post by SCP » 10:43 Sun 13 Jul 2014

Fantastic suggestions here, thanks for the help and will definitely be taking advantage of pretty much all of them!

Looks like lunch at Pinhao at LBV, plus Quinta de la Rosa and/or this should do the trick.
AW77 wrote:When in Pinhao, you should get a taxi to Sandeman's Quinta do Vau (it's around 10 to 12 Euros for one way). They have a quite interesting tour and as they're on top of a mountain a breathtaking view of the Douro valley.
Is there anything beyond Pinhao on the line to Pocinho, or just the view?

In VNdG:
Ramos Pinto happens to be my favourite producer of [whispered quietly on these boards] brown sticky stuff, so will definitely check out their lodge, as well as Graham's and many others.
I had lunch at the Taylor lodge last time I was in Porto (2011) and remember being very impressed by the food, drink and view. Is the view from Vinum or the Yeatman comparable?

User avatar
AHB
Quinta do Noval Nacional 1962
Posts: 11095
Joined: 13:41 Mon 25 Jun 2007
Location: Berkshire, UK

Re: Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post by AHB » 11:23 Sun 13 Jul 2014

SCP wrote:Is the view from Vinum or the Yeatman comparable?
Both have fabulous views. The Yeatman's view is across the river of Oporto while Vinum is on the inside of a bend in the Douro which means that you sit on their terrace looking upriver at the Dom Luis bridge and the quayside of Vila Nova de Gaia. Both are terrific views.
Top Port in 2017 (so far): Graham Stone Terraces 2015 and Quinta do Vesuvio 1994
2016 Port of the year: Cockburn 1908

User avatar
DRT
Graham’s 1948
Posts: 14991
Joined: 23:51 Wed 20 Jun 2007
Location: Chesterfield, UK
Contact:

Re: Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post by DRT » 11:37 Sun 13 Jul 2014

SCP wrote:Is there anything beyond Pinhao on the line to Pocinho, or just the view?
There is a nice little restaurant at Feradossa, close to Quinta de Cachao. The restaurant is on the site of the old railway station, which was relocated about 1km upstream when the river was dammed and the railway line moved. If you and your girlfriend are up for a short walk before lunch stay on the train to Feradossa and then walk back towards Pinhao until you come to the restaurant. You could then walk back to Feradossa and keep walking another km or so until you reach Vargellas where you can catch the train back or go further on into the Douro Superior.

Here is a link to Feradossa on Google Maps. The new station is located where the railway bridge meets the south bank of the river. The restaurant is the red roofed building 1km to the west. https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@41.14270 ... a=!3m1!1e3
"The first duty of Port is to be red"

Ernest H. Cockburn

SCP
Fonseca Bin 27
Posts: 71
Joined: 19:08 Wed 18 Apr 2012
Location: UK

Re: Porto in August with a non-drinker(!)

Post by SCP » 22:56 Sat 19 Jul 2014

Sounds like Vinum and Feradossa it is then. Thanks for all the help. I'll try to write up a trip report when I get back to share the fun.

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests