Paul Symington's 2013 Vintage Report

[DRT]

Douro Harvest 2013

The value of a long-range weather forecast

This year we had a real Douro winter. Good levels of rain fell throughout the last quarter of 2012 and both January and February 2013 were very wet. March had the heaviest rainfall for 12 years with 176 mm, more than three times the average, and serious damage was caused not only to the roads but also to the stone and earth terraces on which our vineyards are planted. In fact dangerous rock avalanches occurred, including one between Sabrosa and Pinhão that blocked the road for several hours, thankfully occurring when no vehicle was passing. Some of the Douro’s vineyards planted over the last twenty years have been set out without care for the natural slope of the hills and with more regard to the power of a bulldozer, so when heavy rains come these errors are fully exposed.

After two drought years with 40% less rainfall than average, this year’s winter rain was of the utmost importance, giving our vineyards an abundant supply of water. Many Douro vines are not irrigated and rely on the water retained in the schistous rock and soil. April at Bomfim was cool with an average 13.8°C compared to a mean of 15.0°C. May continued much cooler than average (16°C vs. 18.4°C), so the vine’s development was at least 10 days late by early June. A delayed cycle is not a serious problem in the Douro and we and our neighbours were very optimistic at this stage. Seldom have the vines looked so healthy, especially after two drought years.

The next three months showed us that no year in the Douro is ever quite like a previous one and that no judgement should be made until the grapes are under cover and in the wineries. In June, July and August just 4.6mm of rain fell at Pinhão. This is effectively no rain for 12 solid weeks. Although these three months were only marginally warmer than average, the lack of rain was extraordinary. One tragic result of this period was that forest fires became a daily feature on every horizon as the parched woodlands were tinder dry right across Portugal.

The ability of the Douro grape varieties such as Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca to cope with such prolonged periods of drought and still nurture fine bunches of ripe berries is extraordinary. Their well-established root systems draw in the necessary water and nutrients from deep in the soil, unlike most other Vitis vinifera which would look very sorry in these conditions. Our vines had lovely dark green leaves and fine looking bunches in late August. The young vines had a tough summer and had to be watered, many by hand.

The crucial month of September started with the maturation still some 10 days behind recent years, measured both by the technical analysis as well as by the traditional tasting of berries in the vineyards and the feel and look of the skins between fingers. Some important rain fell on the 5th September (14mm at Malvedos and 13 mm at Bomfim) which was most welcome. This was more rain in one day than had fallen in the previous three months.
Charles Symington and our viticulture team fixed the picking for Port at Vesuvio and at Senhora da Ribeira in the Douro Superior for the 19th September and for the 23rd at our other vineyards in the Alto Douro. These dates were based on several preceding weeks of careful assessment of grape maturity and the scene was set for an exceptional year. The picking for our Douro DOC wines had started several days earlier.

By the afternoon of Monday 23rd September, with the pickers already in the vineyards picking the Barroca and some other varieties, the long-rang forecast began to show Atlantic rainstorms coming into the Douro on the afternoon of Friday 27th, with wet weather predicted to persist for 6 days. By sunrise on Tuesday morning, Charles had changed the entire picking order that had been so carefully decided just a few days previously. All the pickers were asked to go immediately into the Touriga Nacional, Souzão and Vinha Velha vineyards. During the next 5 days, and in perfect sunny weather, some of the best grapes were picked and brought into the wineries. The lagares fermented during this period are really exceptional, with wonderful colour and aromas. Amongst several great looking wines, two lagares at Senhora da Ribeira made with a blend of Souzão and Touriga Nacional, have really delighted us.

Sure enough rain came in late on Friday, although sparingly in the eastern part of the valley. The unsettled weather persisted until Thursday 3rd, although on the Sunday and Monday there was no rain to speak of. We picked much of our Barroca and Roriz during these unsettled days and their tougher skins and higher Baumés did not suffer much. Some grape varieties did naturally register a drop in sugar readings at this stage, and in the lower-lying and more enclosed vineyards, careful work was needed by the pickers and on the sorting tables.

As from the 4th October, the fine dry weather returned, accompanied by a healthy wind that dried the vines and the top soil. In this phase our pickers started harvesting the Touriga Franca which gave excellent colour, with berries in very good condition. This was good news as Franca with its fragile skins, can be susceptible to excess moisture.

An advantage of our steep Douro vineyards is that the land drains very well after rain, which prevents the damp earth from creating problems in the very ripe berries. Towards the end of the harvest, we returned to our higher vineyards of Touriga Nacional (300 to 450 meters up the valley sides). These grapes came into the wineries with very healthy 13° and 14° Baumés and the fine weather continued until the 13th October by which time all our best vineyards had been picked.

Thus by the judicious use of the long-range weather forecast, quick decision making and a willingness to change the picking order, some very fine looking Ports and Douro DOC wines have been made this year.

This report is being concluded on Saturday 19th October at Provesende in the Pinhão valley under grey skies and after a night of heavy rain. The valley is quiet as all the grapes are in and peace has returned here as the countless visitors and the many pickers have all returned home. Although we still have some fermentations under way at some wineries, we and our farmers are feeling satisfied that despite 6 days of unsettled weather in the middle of the harvest, the year’s work in the vineyard has ended very well and we look forward to tasting our wines in the coming weeks and months.

Paul Symington.
Provesende, Douro.
19th October 2013.

[uncle tom]

After a vintage that has been low on reportage, this is a welcome and comprehensive summary.

My expectation, at this point, is that '13 will provide some sound SQs and LBVs, but no big name declarations.

A delta (ð) year in prospect.

[djewesbury]

Worth keeping an eye out for a Senhora da Ribeira anyway.

[DRT]

After a vintage that has been low on reportage, this is a welcome and comprehensive summary.

My expectation, at this point, is that '13 will provide some sound SQs and LBVs, but no big name declarations.

A delta (ð) year in prospect.

Tom, your prediction for 2013 fits with almost every vintage currently rated "Gamma" in your scale. Why "Delta"?

[uncle tom]

Although it's very early days, what I've heard so far from other producers is much less encouraging about the prospects for 2013 than the report presented by Paul.

It may also be that through a combination of luck and skill, the Symingtons got their harvest timing better than most.

We shall see...

[Axel P]

It may also be that through a combination of luck and skill, the Symingtons got their harvest timing better than most.

this is not what I have noted. Since many producers picked early they could avoid the rain and the ones who picked late (such as the Symingtons) had many more problems with the rain.

Axel

[djewesbury]

It may also be that through a combination of luck and skill, the Symingtons got their harvest timing better than most.

this is not what I have noted. Since many producers picked early they could avoid the rain and the ones who picked late (such as the Symingtons) had many more problems with the rain.

Axel

My own experience is more limited than Axel's but I agree, the majority of harvests were well underway by the time the rains came; and many are harvesting smaller plots, which didn't require quite as much planning and scheduling as the Sym harvest.

[Paul Symington]

It is certainly safer to pick earlier and this gives much less chance of getting rain (by the way, we were picking grapes for white Douro DOC on the 4th September). We could have started picking in mid-August to be safe. There are certainly risks that we are very aware of in waiting for when the grapes are fully ripe (tannins as well as sugars) and aiming for the best.

It is a question of when each producer's vineyard is ripe and how much risk they are prepared to take. It is disappointing to infer that some 'get it right' and others do not. Our region is 100 km long and up to 10 km wide with a wide variety of climates. Some vineyards are at 100 Mt and some at 450 Mt. Some face north, some south. Some producers are mostly DOC producers, rather fewer are primarily Port producers. How could there be a 'right time to pick' for all?

We have vineyards in many key regions of the Douro Superior and Alto Douro, we very carefully assess them, we pick when we are sure our grapes are perfectly ripe.If the rain comes, tough. It is better to aim for the best.

I was very careful in my report not to infer that we got it right or that anybody got it wrong, I just state what we did and why. Each makes their own decision and uses their own criteria and I have plenty of respect for other producers and what they do. So I would be very sorry if there should now be a debate on these grounds. The Douro is worthy of better.

Let the wines speak for themselves in due course..

[jdaw1]

Some posts moved to Ranking years: α β γ δ ε ζ.

[Andy Velebil]

From reports I've heard, it was a hit and miss year and very dependent on when you picked, where your vines were located, and how much rain you got. In other words, just like many other years where some did well, some ok, and some not so good. Isn't this almost every year in the Douro and elsewhere??

I'm sure there will be some wonderful wines made and I'm sure there will be some less wonderful ones as well. It is farming after all and it's a big region, just like many other large wine regions around the world. Will it be a "general declaration", I guess time will tell if enough producers made enough good wine.

(edit - i see Paul posted while I was typing this reply)

[DRT]

I didn't have the opportunity to witness the vintage this year but have heard various mixed reports from people I trust. I am quite sure the potential will be there to produce some very fine port and equally sure that some will have had difficulties. However, I think making sweeping generalisations about any vintage before a single glass is tasted is just silly.

I look forward to finding out the truth of the matter at the trade tastings in spring 2015

[jdaw1]

I look forward to finding out the truth of the matter at tastings in 2034.

[djewesbury]

It is certainly safer to pick earlier and this gives much less chance of getting rain (by the way, we were picking grapes for white Douro DOC on the 4th September). We could have started picking in mid-August to be safe. There are certainly risks that we are very aware of in waiting for when the grapes are fully ripe (tannins as well as sugars) and aiming for the best.

It is a question of when each producer's vineyard is ripe and how much risk they are prepared to take. It is disappointing to infer that some 'get it right' and others do not. Our region is 100 km long and up to 10 km wide with a wide variety of climates. Some vineyards are at 100 Mt and some at 450 Mt. Some face north, some south. Some producers are mostly DOC producers, rather fewer are primarily Port producers. How could there be a 'right time to pick' for all?

We have vineyards in many key regions of the Douro Superior and Alto Douro, we very carefully assess them, we pick when we are sure our grapes are perfectly ripe.If the rain comes, tough. It is better to aim for the best.

I was very careful in my report not to infer that we got it right or that anybody got it wrong, I just state what we did and why. Each makes their own decision and uses their own criteria and I have plenty of respect for other producers and what they do. So I would be very sorry if there should now be a debate on these grounds. The Douro is worthy of better.

Let the wines speak for themselves in due course..

Agreed, wholeheartedly. I don't think anyone meant to suggest (especially since we are not winemakers) that anyone had 'got it wrong'!